2001 Audi A4 Oversized Piston Rings Help
06-27-201607:24 AM #2
Veteran Fellow member 4 Rings 
Here is a large thread on the issue, there might exist info you lot're looking for. I remember I asked the same question in there and the price will make your head hurt, might too build it for power while you're in at that place. 
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...umption-Thread
2018 █ S6 Prestige | Black Optic | S Sport | Driver Assist | Carbon Atlas
DS1 Stage two | SRM TCU | Mike's GESI DP's | AWE Touring w/Black Tips | AWE S-FLO 2 Intake | SRM Turbo Inlets | H&R Sway Confined | ECSTuning Trans & Diff Mounts | JBX Driveshaft Carrier | Power Stop Z16 Ceramic Pads | BC Forged RZ21 20x9.5 ET30 Brushed Black 22lbs due west/Michelin PS4S 265/35/twenty | -15mm w/VCDS | CS-Two Ceramic Coated | 20% Tint
06-27-201607:43 AM #four
Veteran Member Iv Rings
Originally Posted past tbroesch 
I saw this one. Information technology seems that information technology mostly involves how to work with the dealer. I'm hoping to find someone who did the work themselves.
I got ya, at that place are a few in here that have rebuilt their motors and some because of the same issue you're in.
2018 █ S6 Prestige | Blackness Optic | S Sport | Driver Assist | Carbon Atlas
DS1 Stage ii | SRM TCU | Mike's GESI DP's | AWE Touring w/Black Tips | AWE S-FLO II Intake | SRM Turbo Inlets | H&R Sway Confined | ECSTuning Trans & Diff Mounts | JBX Driveshaft Carrier | Power Stop Z16 Ceramic Pads | BC Forged RZ21 20x9.5 ET30 Brushed Blackness 22lbs w/Michelin PS4S 265/35/20 | -15mm westward/VCDS | CS-II Ceramic Coated | 20% Tint
06-27-201608:43 AM #half-dozen
Veteran Member 3 Rings
Hello Tyler,
My offset question to you lot: have yous e'er rebuilt a motor?
Second question: have you bought the special tools needed to disassemble the motor properly? I have a DIY 'motor' thread (till in working progress) only a chunk of the dis-associates is covered. I explain what is needed.
You lot accept 2 options on your rebuild: quick and dirty or complete.
Quick and dirty would be to ensure cylinder walls are not scored and look healthy. If and so, slap in the newly revised pistons and piston rings, reuse the same bearings, etc., new bolts and away y'all go. Now, the 'engine builder' in me wouldn't recommend this and at the mileage you are at, I would suggest a more in-depth build. Significant, measure all tolerances so you lot 'know' what you lot are working with and can safely sleep at night knowing that a 'quick and dirty' build volition last you for some time.
The other method is to do a consummate rebuild which requires a complete tear downwards of the whole short block. Correct deck top, hone/re-hash cylinder walls, smooth crank, re-peen or buy new rods, new bearings, check tolerances, the whole 9-yards.
Also, no affair what method yous choose, replace ALL hardware (bolts, gaskets, guides, chain) and get with the latest timing tensioner every bit the one y'all take is a ticking timebomb and will fail on you.
2010 Silver Audi A4 MT Sport Parcel west/ B&O
Stage 'X': FrankenTurbo F23L Ceramic Coated Manifold | Swell-Flo P&P Head | Ferrea Intake Competition Valves | Ferrera Exhaust Super Alloy Valves | IE ValveSprings & Retainers | HFC wrapped w/ DEI Titantium
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Build Thread
06-27-201608:46 AM #7
Veteran Member 4 Rings 
Y'all might want to cheque your regional boards for a local indie that might take done the job and can give you pointers or a fair toll. Not but AZ, but also cheque QW and AW.
06-27-201610:26 AM #10
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
06-27-201610:32 AM #xi
Veteran Fellow member Iv Rings
Originally Posted by Allowencer
Hi Tyler,
My offset question to you: have y'all ever rebuilt a motor?
Second question: have yous bought the special tools needed to disassemble the motor properly? I have a DIY 'motor' thread (till in working progress) but a clamper of the dis-assembly is covered. I explain what is needed.
You lot have 2 options on your rebuild: quick and dirty or consummate.
Quick and dirty would exist to ensure cylinder walls are not scored and wait healthy. If so, slap in the newly revised pistons and piston rings, reuse the aforementioned bearings, etc., new bolts and away you go. At present, the 'engine builder' in me wouldn't recommend this and at the mileage you are at, I would propose a more in-depth build. Pregnant, measure all tolerances and so you 'know' what you are working with and can safely slumber at night knowing that a 'quick and dingy' build volition final yous for some time.
The other method is to do a complete rebuild which requires a complete tear down of the whole short block. Right deck top, strop/re-hash cylinder walls, shine creepo, re-peen or buy new rods, new bearings, check tolerances, the whole nine-yards.
Also, no matter what method you choose, replace ALL hardware (bolts, gaskets, guides, chain) and become with the latest timing tensioner every bit the 1 you lot have is a ticking timebomb and will fail on you.
There you are, I was trying to link your build thread and lettuce just you already got here earlier I could.
2018 █ S6 Prestige | Black Optic | Southward Sport | Commuter Help | Carbon Atlas
DS1 Stage ii | SRM TCU | Mike's GESI DP'due south | AWE Touring due west/Blackness Tips | AWE Southward-FLO Two Intake | SRM Turbo Inlets | H&R Sway Bars | ECSTuning Trans & Diff Mounts | JBX Driveshaft Carrier | Power Stop Z16 Ceramic Pads | BC Forged RZ21 20x9.five ET30 Brushed Black 22lbs westward/Michelin PS4S 265/35/20 | -15mm west/VCDS | CS-2 Ceramic Coated | twenty% Tint
06-27-201610:41 AM #12
Veteran Member Iii Rings
Originally Posted by tbroesch
I have not rebuilt a car engine before. I've done a lot of other vehicle maintenance, simply zilch this in depth. I have access to a full array of "standard type" tools and a elevator. I ordered the polydrive tool , simply it hasn't arrived still. I took the harmonic balancer of with an impact while the car was in gear (non my best decision I sympathise, just I had the help that twenty-four hour period to piece of work on the car and no tool...).
My timing chain, tensioner, guides, and intake valves were all replaced past the other possessor at 88,000 miles due to the car going out of time. So in other words the top cease and timing were just replaced inside the final year/ 14,000 mies.
Lastly, I was planning on going with the "quick and dirty" approach (with the understanding that all fasteners and gaskets will be changed).
Oddly enough, I actually used your DIY 'motor' thread to get as far as I have. So thanks for that already! lol
Y'all are going to need many more tools.
The creepo pulley should have only been removed once information technology is fix at TDC location.
What y'all need to avoid is rotating the motor over, once the cam timing isn't connected anymore and smacking into valves. In improver, it's a "known" starting betoken for when you reassemble everything.
2010 Silver Audi A4 MT Sport Parcel w/ B&O
Stage 'X': FrankenTurbo F23L Ceramic Coated Manifold | Bully-Flo P&P Head | Ferrea Intake Contest Valves | Ferrera Exhaust Super Alloy Valves | IE ValveSprings & Retainers | HFC wrapped w/ DEI Titantium
Eurocode FMIC | Maestro Tuned | K&N Typhoon Intake | EuroCode Meisterwerk | StopTech BBK | 034 Motor Mounts & All Inserts | CTS PCV Catch Tin
Build Thread
06-27-201612:42 PM #14
Veteran Fellow member Three Rings
True, only when you remove the cam timing concatenation excursion, the cams will rotate to a 'neutral' position, based on valve jump seat force per unit area/load, valves will open up. You desire to make sure Cylinder #1 is at TDC to ensure contact isn't fabricated.
2010 Silvery Audi A4 MT Sport Packet w/ B&O
Stage 'X': FrankenTurbo F23L Ceramic Coated Manifold | Bully-Flo P&P Caput | Ferrea Intake Contest Valves | Ferrera Exhaust Super Alloy Valves | IE ValveSprings & Retainers | HFC wrapped due west/ DEI Titantium
Eurocode FMIC | Maestro Tuned | One thousand&Due north Draft Intake | EuroCode Meisterwerk | StopTech BBK | 034 Motor Mounts & All Inserts | CTS PCV Grab Tin
Build Thread
06-27-201609:24 PM #15
Established Fellow member Ii Rings
When I did my timing chain job, I bought a 1 mean solar day subscription from Erwin.audi.com ($35 or and so IIRC) and spent a couple hours saving every B8 transmission I could notice for future use. It has all the torque numbers and procedures if you lot dig for them. Paid for itself a agglomeration of times already
2009 A4 Prestige SOLD - 2.0T Quattro, Brilliant Black/Blackness
Mods:Repairs: Pistons, Turbocharger, Timing concatenation+Tensioner, Oil Cooler, H2o Pump, Intake Manifold, Wheel Begetting, Alternator...
2014 S4 - Black/Black, DSG, Leather, B&O, Sport Diff, Peelers
06-28-201610:45 PM #17
Established Fellow member Ii Rings
Originally Posted by tbroesch
Cheers Homer_J, I will log in to it and start compiling them. Did you replace your pistons and rings too?
I was i of the few lucky ones who got them replaced by the dealer exterior the mileage somehow. And so I can't advise much on the task, distressing.
I've used the manuals to replace my timing chain and tensioner and remove the camshafts, and I thought they were pretty decent. Some of the info is a flake scattered and requires jumping effectually. Also, some of the other engine variations (like the ane.8) are thrown in the same chapters so you demand to brand sure you're using the proper steps.
I bought a CAEB specialty tool kit on ebay for 200 bucks before doing my work too. (Cam locks, cam actuator pins, giant annoying wrench for turning the creepo, etc) Non certain if you need all that though...
2009 A4 Prestige SOLD - ii.0T Quattro, Brilliant Black/Black
Mods:Repairs: Pistons, Turbocharger, Timing concatenation+Tensioner, Oil Libation, Water Pump, Intake Manifold, Wheel Begetting, Alternator...
2014 S4 - Black/Black, DSG, Leather, B&O, Sport Diff, Peelers
06-thirty-201610:52 AM #23
Registered Member One Ring
I bought my transmission from factory manuals dot com. They print the manual from audi dot ag for your machine vin number. 8669pages. All necessary torgue settings and stuff tin can be found there. Made a large help because in that location is for example part for engine disassembly /assembly. From pace to step.. My car is 2010 155kw petrol quattro. In cylinder head y'all have 2 ways to take it off, if you have assemly clearance choice"exchaust camshaft should have openings for cylinder head bolts to take whole cylinder head off, if not like mine, you have to tear down cylinder head and camshafts. Ac and hydraulic steering pumps can be bolted off from engine an secures to automobile frame so you dont accept to open circuits. Front end to service position and all connectors etc hoses off, Electrics can ce taken off woth engine, few hard places to ger for excample contrary gear switch in gearbox. Etc. I would not have tried before reading manual. Now pistons in paw and new parts ordered. Almost 2000� fix with new pistons conrods seals timing head and all renewable bolts
07-24-201709:27 AM #26
Established Member Ii Rings
Thanks for the info in this thread guys. I'grand likely going to be doing this myself besides. Just curious where everyone constitute every bit the cheapest place to buy the parts. I volition likely go with the Mahle/IE philharmonic as well. ECS is pretty much the only place I've seen so far.
07-25-201709:31 PM #27
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by GTRAFF
I take the "Audi Service Manual v10" Covers everything pretty well. Oil consumption is zero at present between 5000 mile oil changes. Car currently has 180,000 miles. Every calendar month or and so I am getting a underboost code so I doubtable the turbo may be getting worn or perhaps the wastegate is not closing all the way. I programme on checking the wastegate at next oil modify. I just utilise Mobil 1 0w40 and change oil every 5000 miles.
If not the wastegate, cheque/clean MAP (not MAF) sensor with electronic cleaner, also audit its o-ring. Commuter side, below the ps reservoir. Logging the machine for boost requested vs actual would be a skillful idea.
07-26-201703:19 AM #29
Veteran Member 4 Rings 
Originally Posted by roxta
I had a store rebuild mine with IE rods, oversized Mahle Pistons, Ferrrea valves and springs, new bearings. Bore, honed and decked.
Prior to the rebuild it was burning 1L of oil per 500km.
I've done about 12000km since the rebuild and it is burning 1L per 4000km.
I went Apr phase 2 about 7000km agone and no change in oil consumption.
I know turbo engines burn oil, is this amount "normal"?
Depends who y'all want to believe. 1L/4,000km is within spec for this engine, per Audi. Only later engines and repaired ones don't mostly burn a drop, in my experience.
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07-26-201702:30 PM #thirty
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by Projection Quattro
Depends who you want to believe. 1L/4,000km is inside spec for this engine, per Audi. But afterward engines and repaired ones don't by and large burn a drop, in my experience.
Had mine rebuilt with oem parts at 120k. 50k later on it yet doesn't burn a drop of oil.
09-twenty-201812:15 PM #31
Established Member Three Rings
pierreb - do you know exactly what parts were used? I'm trying to get a gauge on the toll if I were to do this myself.
09-20-201812:17 PM #32
Veteran Member Four Rings 
Im in the same boat need to practice information technology myself. I saw the list one time and it was really long.
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2014 A4 ii.0TQ Technik
2006 A4 ii.0TQ 6spd
1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
1976 Yamaha XS 360
09-20-201812:37 PM #33
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
So at a very loftier level look, you are pulling the engine out , taking the head off, taking the pan off. Undoing rod bolts, pulling pistons out the meridian And replacing ?
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2014 A4 two.0TQ Technik
2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
1976 Yamaha XS 360
09-20-201801:53 PM #34
Established Fellow member 3 Rings
Ya, that�due south right. I�m starting a google medico with the parts list and where to get them the cheapest. PM me your e-mail if you want to help along with the md together? I accept the replacement rods, Pistons, and piston rings then found so far. Going to beginning working on all the other deals/bolts/etc. that volition be needed probably side by side week.
I have a practice engine to accept apart and put back together, which is nice, so will probably do that i start, to get all the techniques downwardly, and and so do information technology with my engine subsequently and with new parts. I�m looking at probably over 800 miles/quart right at present and perchance amend. And so I won�t be doing my motor correct abroad; I�m but trying to know what it�ll entail when I probably have to do it sometime later on.
09-xx-201803:07 PM #35
Veteran Member Iv Rings
B8 A4 Piston Replacement
Im definitely interested. I took my car near eighty miles tiday and dropped half a quart
Yup 80 miles. Going to have the bores scoped. If they are scored the engine is toast.
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2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik
2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
1976 Yamaha XS 360
09-20-201803:24 PM #36
Veteran Member Four Rings 
Originally Posted past blgilles
Ya, that�south right. I�g starting a google doc with the parts list and where to go them the cheapest. PM me your e-mail if you lot want to assistance along with the doc together? I accept the replacement rods, Pistons, and piston rings so found so far. Going to start working on all the other deals/bolts/etc. that will be needed probably next week.
I have a practice engine to take apart and put back together, which is nice, and so volition probably do that i first, to get all the techniques down, and so do it with my engine later and with new parts. I�m looking at probably over 800 miles/quart right now and perhaps amend. And then I won�t be doing my motor correct abroad; I�k just trying to know what it�ll entail when I probably accept to do it sometime later.
Send me a pm with an email address and I can send you the parts list from my stage 2 job. Yous besides may desire to consider merely dropping in a newer, used engine.
09-xx-201803:41 PM #37
Established Member 3 Rings
Thanks. Just emailed. Yes - a motor swap might be amend. So far all I�ve found are pretty pricey... I�m probably doing it wrong. Recommendations on where to search?
09-xx-201805:09 PM #38
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by blgilles
Thanks. Just emailed. Yes - a motor swap might be better. And so far all I�ve institute are pretty pricey... I�1000 probably doing it incorrect. Recommendations on where to search?
There are several guy's hither that have done swaps and I've seen LKQ recommended. You can swap in up to a 2015 I think, with minor changes. Others can confirm the MY's that work.
Coil to mail 866 for an overview on the bandy.....
https://world wide web.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Across/page22
09-xx-201808:04 PM #39
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
B8 A4 Piston Replacement
Im in the same boat. Scoping will help make the decision in which way to go. Thats what audi does likewise.
Later on they telescopic it either pistons/ rings or new engine
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2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik
2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
1976 Yamaha XS 360
09-21-201803:49 AM #40
Senior Member Three Rings 
If it where my car I�d merely get new pistons and rings new timing chains new residuum shafts and tensioner etc and then drive it.
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